The rainy season is in full force here in North Showa, Ethiopia. The area, which had not seen a drop of rain in several weeks, now experiences daily storms. The dry arid landscape has been transformed into lush green meadows in a matter of days. With the rain comes colder temperatures, overcast skies, and mud, lots and lots of mud. In a place where the closest paved road is 25 km away and walking is the primary form of transportation, this makes getting around more challenging.
Our household surveys of local farmers are well underway, but
with the sudden onset of rainy season, I decided it would be wise to try to
complete data collection in the most distant area that we needed to access by
road, a region called Metkoriya. Metkoriya is a very remote area only
accessible by a single lane dirt road that winds alongside cliffs, up and down
steep mountain passes, and sharp switchbacks. Here in the highlands of
Ethiopia, most plateaus are over 9000 feet above sea level and getting to
Metkoriya involved descending from the plateau I live on and then climbing back
up to the neighboring plateau.
A survey in progress at 9000 feet above sea level |
So as soon as I could secure a vehicle to rent, three
translators and I set out on the road to Metkoriya one morning. After a few
minutes of travel I realized we may already be too late to access this area.
After only a week or so of rain, the road had been transformed into sloppy mud
with deep puddles. The van we were in was not equipped to handle the steep
inclines and declines and the spinning tires so close to the edge of a cliff
were making me nervous. Several times we all got out to push the van out of a
deep puddle. The driver was not too happy with the situation and after 2-3 slow
miles of travel down the mountain side and into the valley, he said he wouldn't
be able to take us any further. With about 2-3 uphill miles left until we
reached Metkoriya, I asked my translator what we should do now. "We
walk" he said, "into the cloud." He pointed up the steep muddy
slope that after 20 feet was obscured by thick fog.
So we set off on foot on the uphill hike into the clouds. The
mud clumped around our shoes and added a few pounds of weight to each step. The
inside of a cloud is unsurprisingly very wet and we were all soaked by the time
we reached Metkoriya. As we summited the top of the plateau where Metkoriya
sits we were rewarded by the spectacular view of looking down at the cloud
covered valley below.
View from Metkoriya |
A Metkoriya farmer showing off one of his barley plants |
I wish I were there with you guys. Thank you all for this research in one of the forgotten corners of the nation.
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